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THIS RESTAURANT HAS CHANGED LOCATIONS Acorn House Restaurant Review: This restaurant has its twenty-first-century heart in the right place, what with using a compost heap for leftover food, stocking wines shipped by sea from around the world, and a charity in charge. But none of it would succeed, let's be honest, were it not for its notable cooking. Start with the ingredients, which are naturally organic and from sustainable resources. Fruit and vegetables sit in baskets on the window ledges, periodically raided by a waiter sent from the kitchen; lamb comes from Wales in the springtime; fish from the rich waters around the British Isles; cured meats and cheeses are brought by train from Europe. Try the likes of wild garlic and spinach soup topped with pistachio crème fraîche or an imaginative salad of shredded Savoy cabbage with caraway and fried capers. Then perhaps move on to seasonal, sweet-tasting Welsh lamb or ravioli of Italian chard and fresh goat’s cheese. The place bustles. Chairs and tables run down one side and there’s an open kitchen at the end. Service is charming; the wine list good. The second branch is Water House, 10 Orsman Rd., N1, 020-7033 0123.