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Aki’s Restaurant Review: When chef Kumar Mahadevan arrived in Sydney he could not have envisioned that twenty-something years later he would have two premier Indian restaurants. Nor that they would outlast many others in this city of notoriously fickle diners. Aki’s, positioned at the roadside end of a restored finger wharf, offers accessibility and striking views of the city skyline and water, but most importantly, it conveys a sincere desire to share food that is part of Mahadevan and his wife Suba’s heritage. You are welcomed like longtime friends and enticed to try dishes you may not have known unless you have travelled in India. Forget Punjabi cuisine, forget Bollywood hype --- this is authentic cooking, with plenty of vegetarian dishes from Chennai, Goa and the North. Braised pickled lamb shoulder (lamb martaban) arrives at the table still bubbling under its bread seal. There’s crispy eggplant dusted in chickpea flour, a selection of tandoor specialties (tandoor kingfish, anyone?) and, yes, butter chicken Aki’s style, better than you may have ever eaten. It wouldn’t be Indian without a banquet menu, and three are available. The wine list keeps up well with the complex foods with 11 by the glass.