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Aki’s Restaurant Review: More than twenty years after arriving in Sydney from India, chef Kumar Mahadevan has seen his dreams come true, with two premier Indian restaurants. Aki’s, positioned at the roadside end of a restored finger wharf, offers accessibility and striking views of the city skyline and water, but most importantly, it conveys the desire to share food that is part of Mahadevan and his wife Suba’s national heritage. Their food philosophy centers around fresh produce, understanding the characteristics of spices, and staying true to the authenticity of dishes and their regional nuances. You are welcomed like longtime friends and enticed to try dishes you may not have known unless you have traveled in India. Forget Punjabi cuisine, forget Bollywood hype --- this is authentic cooking, with plenty of vegetarian dishes from Chennai, Goa and the North. Braised pickled lamb shoulder (lamb martaban) arrives at the table still bubbling under its bread seal, while another option is the interestingly-named railway goat curry. And, yes, butter chicken Aki’s style is better than you may have ever eaten. Choose from tandoor specialties (tandoor kingfish, anyone?) and a good range of vegetarian dishes (pan-tossed okra and chickpeas, saag paneer). But then, it wouldn’t be Indian without a banquet menu, and three are available. The wine list keeps up well with the complex foods, with several by the glass. Finish the meal with chocolate ganache and chili, or Indian kulfi ice cream.