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Al Forno Restaurant Restaurant Review: Chef-owners Johanne Killeen and George Germon create artfully simple and cerebral renditions of food rooted in the various regional cuisines of Italy and Southern France, re-crafted to integrate the products of New England farms and waters. Diners weather a sometimes-brutal wait (the restaurant has a no-reserving policy) to sample food that is austere in conception, pure in taste and admirable in its preservation of culinary roots. Familiarity, not change, is the calling card. Pissalidière is a classic Provençal tart marrying onions, olives and black anchovies; here it's grilled (the kitchen's signature technique) to cracker-crunchiness. Sausages are roasted, Tuscan-style, and trattoria-hearty with grapes and mashed potatoes. Al dente rigatoni serve as generous vessels for veal Bolognese, with Parmigiano-Reggiano pushing the flavor of diced vegetables to the background. Grilled pizzas are another highlight, their crusts faintly sweet and finished with fresh, well-seasoned toppings. Want to skip the wait? Order at the bar, where the full menu is served. Don't forget to choose your dessert first --- all are made to order. We suggest the apple crisp tart. What we respect most about Al Forno is the attention to detail; dining feels casual but comes with all the perks of the Big Picture: a great wine list, well-schooled servers and a menu without weakness.