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Al Forno Restaurant Restaurant Review: Since opening their doors in 1980, chefs-owners Johanne Killeen and George Germon have earned untouchable status for their artfully simple and cerebral renditions of food rooted in the various regional cuisines of Italy and Southern France, re-crafted to integrate the products of New England farms and waters. Diners weather a sometimes-brutal wait (the restaurant has a no-reserving policy) to sample food that is austere in conception, pure in taste and admirable in its preservation of culinary roots. Pissalidière is a classic Provençal tart marrying onions, olives and black anchovies; here it's grilled (the kitchen's signature technique) to cracker-crunchiness. Sausages are roasted, Tuscan-style, and trattoria-hearty with grapes and mashed potatoes. Al-dente rigatoni serve as generous vessels for veal Bolognese, with Parmigiano-Reggiano pushing the flavor of diced vegetables to the background. Grilled pizzas are a highlight, their crusts faintly sweet, their toppings fresh and well seasoned. (Want to skip the wait? Order one at the bar --- where the full menu is served --- with a glass of wine.) Choose your desserts first --- all are made to order. The apple crisp tart is heavenly. What we respect most about Al Forno is the attention to detail. Dining here feels casual, but comes with all the perks of the Big Picture: a great wine list, well-schooled servers and a menu without weakness.