 Americano Restaurant Review: If it occupied hip yet homespun digs in some far corner of the Mission, Americano might, ironically, get more attention than it does hugging the side of Hotel Vitale. Served all day, chef Kory Stewart's menu criss-crosses regions of Italy and leans heavily on house-made pickles and sausages, cocktail-friendly antipasti and beautifully cooked hunks of meat and seafood, trafficking in satisfying, familiar flavor combinations. There are few risks taken, and yet a wealth of rewards: to name several, a grease-free platter of fried Brussels sprouts husks and sweet baby artichoke hearts, a subtle, lemony tuna conserva and lovely cavatelli with lamb sausage, almond-mint pesto and wafers of salty-sour pecorino. Service is detailed and smooth. Wines ordered by the glass come in mini-carafes. A special dessert section boasting smaller-portioned mini-desserts for tables eager to share is a nice touch. This hotel restaurant situated between the Financial District's busy corridors and the tourist-clogged Embarcadero hosts splashy corporate happy hours and business lunches as well as exhausted hotel guests. Many such establishments gamely deign to tackle a diversity of occasions; Americano is rare in that it does so while remaining, almost surprisingly, a very good restaurant.
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