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Amphitryon Restaurant Review: In an old, charming house right in the heart of a group of streets lined with century-old trees, devil-of-a-cook Bruno Ungaro knows how to whip up conventional fare with a personality all its own. His Provence-inspired set-menu is a shining example. Try the duo of risotto with boletus mushrooms and with gorgonzola. Nice days let you linger under the magnolias on the terrace facing the twelfth-century cloisters. Associate and friend Patrice Lesné has worked up a wine list teeming with growers' wines. Unheard of quality for the money.