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Andy Nelson's Restaurant Review: Other Baltimore football greats have tried their hands at the restaurant biz: Don Shula, Johnny Unitas and Ray Lewis all come quickly to mind. But none has a stronger hold on the hearts, minds and stomachs of Baltimoreans than former Colt Andy Nelson’s barbecue place in Cockeysville. The specialty is Southern-style pulled pork --- Nelson’s an Alabama native --- but there are plenty of other choices, including pit beef, brisket, smokehouse chicken and Memphis-style ribs, all slow-cooked over hickory for that signature fall-off-the-bone texture and deep-down-smoky flavor that’s favored by ’cue lovers. And don’t forget the baked beans and cornbread, and sweet tea sold by the gallon. If you crave barbecue, look for the little joint with the pig on the roof. You’ll be in hog heaven.