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Angelini Osteria Restaurant Review

7313 Beverly Blvd. (Poinsettia Ave.) Send to Phone
Los AngelesCA 90036
323-297-0070 | Make Restaurant Reservations | Menu
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This decidedly diminutive space manages to carry a vibe of accessibility and selectiveness all at once. Antipasti lead the show at dinnertime.

Cuisine

Open

Lunch Tues.-Fri., Dinner Tues.-Sun.

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A decidedly diminutive space for the big talent and devoted following of chef Gino Angelini, this elegant study in blond wood and clean lines manages to nail the elusive vibe of being both accessible and select. Smartly attired regulars are greeted like family, others with genuine enthusiasm. The former chef of Rex il Ristorante and Vincenti shows respect for lunch with a serious selection of pizzas, pastas and an oven-cooked half chicken with potatoes. Antipasti lead the show at night: start with fresh anchovies with artichokes and beets, or maybe umido di trippa (tender tripe stewed with cuttlefish and tomatoes). Risotto with mixed seafood ragù delivers properly cooked rice for an altogether satisfying dish. Pastas are consistently strong, such as Nonna Elvira's green lasagna and pumpkin tortelli with asparagus and butter-sage sauce. Main courses include a whole branzino roasted in a sea salt crust ceremoniously filleted tableside, and bistecca alla Fiorentina. Among the weekly specials are veal kidneys (not easy to find Stateside) with onions in white wine sauce, and a rustic wood-roasted leg of pork. An ending of Red Cow Parmigiano with pears and balsamic vinegar is pleasing.

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