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Aria Restaurant Review: This vibrant, stylish establishment welcomes its guests through a curtain of silver beads, designed to represent a complete break with the past. Gerry Klaskala's menu plays with regional dishes and home-style cooking. Pristine ingredients are the rule, from nicely cooked sea scallops, sweet and translucent in the center, to ever-present foie gras in a preparation that changes with the chef’s whim, perhaps seared and accompanied by vanilla braised Fuji apples and black pepper gastrique. Among the entrées, the tender beef short ribs braised in Zinfandel achieve home-style harmony with the wine. Dishes are presented simply, never garishly. Desserts change often, according to pastry chef Kathryn King, who makes her own ice creams. Her dessert creativity approaches the philosophical, combining classical purity with a distinctive edginess that never goes over the top. The frisky wine list ranges through the unusual varietals, such as Albariño. A nifty touch: Waiters present the bottle for by-the-glass wine-purchasing patrons, so they may see exactly what is being poured, and, to approve the choice, a small sip is poured before the entire pour is rendered.