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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Artisanal Brasserie & Winebar Restaurant Review: Chef-owner Terrance Brennan, of New York’s Picholine and Artisanal, has brought a refined, slightly over-the-top French brasserie to Bellevue---just what this increasingly cosmopolitan ’burb has been craving. The chic restaurant is both intimate and festive with a Belle Époque dining room featuring dark mahogany custom millwork and black-and-white tiled floors. The menu is all about well-prepared modern French bistro cuisine emphasizing fresh Pacific Northwest ingredients. Enjoy classic charcuterie, French onion soup, or classic steak and frites, although the latter was a bit limp on a visit. Other tempting entrées include a rich duck bourguignon and tender lamb ragoût. Cheese aficionados will gravitate to the 25-foot marble Bar du Fromage, which offers more than 70 cheeses matched with carefully chosen wine flights. This sets the stage for the silky cheese fondues, sized small and large, in four variations including a Stilton and Sauternes, and a robust classic with Emmental, Gruyère and Comté. Fondues are served with bread cubes, but you can add tasty extras---for a price---such as Kielbasa, beef tips, apples and fingerling potatoes. Desserts include a warm pear tart, made-to-order donuts dusted with sugar, and a chocolate fondue. Professional service and a solid wine list are pluses.