THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Avenues Awards

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Avenues Restaurant Review:

When Graham Elliot Bowles packed up his Pop Rocks to open his own place, Chicagoans---strike that, serious foodies the world over---worried the (stuffy seeming) dining room would become stuffier still. Not going to happen, at least when it comes to what’s on the plate. Former Alinea sous chef Curtis Duffy now quarterbacks, calling plays that trick, stun and, ultimately, are victorious, yet they aren't quite as novel as Bowles' grand innovations from the Avenues of past. Sometimes, his whimsy translates tastily; other times, we’re hankering for what’s ho-hum. The amaranth sheet-garnished, pan-seared scallop with amaranth puffs, brown butter and huckleberry is a part science experiment, part balanced, uniquely executed treat. Course after course, though, some of the tricks---xanthan gum to thicken sauces, for example---get a bit exhausting. The dish of English peas, prosciutto powder and lettuces---the former whirled on the plate with dragon-esque visual appeal---is lovely to look at but much less appealing to the palate. That said, the Wagyu with smoked coconut and a purée of basil is a pleasure for the mouth. Meals, offered in four-, eight- or 15-course collections, all are prohibitively expensive, particularly when paired with wine. This is special occasion dining in rare form, and you should expect to pay accordingly at this sedate space.