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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED B. Smith's Restaurant Review: If you haven't stopped in for a Southern meal at this colossal Union Station eatery, you've missed one of Capitol Hill's major power-lunch scenes. At other times, expect to rub shoulders with suburbanites, tourists or city folk enjoying a rollicking time. Start big with jambalaya, deep-fried catfish fingers or the Southern classic, fried green tomatoes. For more of the South, try the crab cakes and jerk-brined pork chops or grilled shrimp and grits. Slightly smaller dishes include a hearty seafood gumbo or the Swamp Thang, a dish of mixed seafood over Southern-style greens. End with a portion of Bourbon St. bread pudding. This is the same Ms. B. Smith from TV, books and the Web who offers advice on everything from gardening and home decorating to cooking. She also owns restaurants in New York.