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Barbette Restaurant Review: For late-night dining or just dessert (try chocolate-espresso fondue), it doesn't get much better than Barbette. The place is named after a legendary French circus aerialist---rather apropos, balancing breakfast, lunch, dinner and late night fare as it does---and does very well. Décor is as unpretentious as the menu: simple fare made stellar by its focus on local and organic ingredients used by a chef who cares. We can't resist a slice of velvety quiche, and we positively adore the pomme frites served with silky saffron aïoli. Besides the fresh niçoise salad, try the toasted and buttery croque monsieur, with luscious layers of ham and oozing Gruyère. At dinnertime, sample a creamy risotto, homey roasted chicken or traditional steak au poivre. A lovely (and inexpensive) wine list means there is no excuse not to order at least a glass. Quirky servers are sometimes pierced in numerous places, and hair dye color choices vary, but all have personality.