 Molecular gastronomy and modern French cuisine have always defined Baume, but an overreliance in its early days on the former, which had guests literally blowing smoke, limited the appeal of the latter. The balance is now seamless --- foam, spheres and dry ice still find their place in executive chef Bruno Chemel's repertoire, but in a comfortable, integrated manner with touches of whimsy. Tasting menus include the ultimate five- or nine-course Friday power lunch ($78 and $128, without wine pairing) and a 12-course dinner ($178, with wine pairing $298 or with premium wine pairing $368). Sous-vide beef, flash-seared to finish, is as desirous a bite of beef as you’ll find. Lobster with split pea purée, anise and hibiscus gelée delivers beauty and an homage to the molecular. Noirmoutier turbot in a delicate foam is toothsome and elegant. Select items repeat throughout the seasons, such as the 62-degree slow-cooked egg, while most are based on what’s fresh now. Seasonality drives the salade de printemps, wherein Chemel elevates the simple construct with artful presentation and science into something exceptional. The wine list is substantive and pairings thoughtful and at times creative: a saké surprised us midway through our experience and proved an excellent choice. Sweets favor fruit and the extraction of their flavor --- strawberries appeared flash frozen as dust, intense in gelato, and in liquid form as a strawberry soda float. Pacing is more realistic for modern dining than the eternal timing of other high-end dining rooms. The restaurant's nondescript façade and subtle black and orange décor offer little hint to the cuisine that awaits; atmosphere is achieved simply with thick drapery that creates secluded areas with small clusters of tables. For diners serious about serious food, this almost-secret spot is building a following.
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Baume Restaurant is one of our 2012
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Baumé is one of our Top 10 Molecular Restaurants in the U.S.
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