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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Beato Food & Wine Restaurant Review: This neighborhood bistro is well worth a ride across the West Seattle Bridge. Owner Brandon Gillespie worked at a New York wine shop co-owned by Mario Batali, then studied wine in Italy before returning to Seattle. Under chef Nick Devine, the kitchen turns out dishes like a tomato gelato amuse-bouche, a delightful warm-up for an antipasto plate outfitted with Gorgonzola, mozzarella, roasted vegetables, and wafer-thin slices of Salumi’s cured meats. An arugula salad holds slivers of “beet carpaccio” and a Caesar is festooned with a Parmesan crisp and garlic-slathered crostini. Chicken is pounded thin and stuffed with fennel and prosciutto, and paired with a spicy herb salad. Short ribs arrive in a thick stack while pork tenderloin with candied cabbage and cubes of celery root offers subtle, autumnal tastes. Should decisions be difficult, professional servers will help pair food and wine, or discuss the restaurant’s rare Italian and Scottish beers. Our recommendations for dessert: chocolate ravioli, filled with warm mascarpone and topped with chocolate sauce and candied fennel, or exotic basil gelato.