 Copper ceilings overhead. A gold-embossed vault where diners may be seated. Speckled marble and antiquated security boxes shined to new. The Bedford has clearly built upon the aesthetically pleasing features of the former MB Bank building. Its pre-1920s feel pairs well with the slew of pre-Prohibition cocktails, new and creative concoctions, and carefully stirred, not shaken, martinis---bolstered by a solid lineup of spirits from local and Midwestern distilleries alongside a handful of craft and classic brews and diverse wines. Chef Mark Steuer’s cooking proves as sophisticated as the bar program, which is to say it's not the typical pub grub you might expect. To start, snack on mild duck liver mousse with toast points or a selection of oysters served the old-fashioned way: on the half shell with mignonette. A hefty pork chop on the bone with sweet, caramelized-apple gastrique and bits of belly is a standout, as is the namesake burger, a juicy, hand-packed patty with Canadian bacon and blue cheese slaw, topped with a yolky fried egg. Light eaters will appreciate the Cobb salad, a crunchy mélange of baby iceberg wedges and bacon and creamy local-onion dressing. Frozen desserts from nearby Black Dog Gelato come in Irish Cream and fig flavors and are a good way to round out a meal. On Sundays, ward off hangovers with deviled eggs plated with bacon “powder,” a fine burger and carbonara.
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