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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Bevo Mill Restaurant Review: Don't go to Bevo for the food, although the restaurant has more German specialties than practically anywhere in town. Go for the building, a mock windmill built before World War I by the Busch dynasty, and its delightful interiors complete with gargoyles, Falstaffian beamed ceilings and chandeliers with lamp shades. Lots of family groups come here for celebrations, of course, and stories of visits in previous decades from older generations can be oveheard constantly. The other sound track, the music, is equally amusing, old stuff that reminds one of the sound tracks from ancient cartoons and grade school ceremonies in the Thirties. Probably the only German restaurant in America that serves black bean soup with mozzarella cheese, Bevo offers more soup choices than salads, including French onion and crawfish bisque. Hassenpfeffer and short ribs, steaks and chops, calf's liver and seafood all are part of a long list of main courses. Side dishes seem to either hit (red cabbage) or miss entirely (Spatzle). Desserts continue the erratic course. Still, somehow, there's a charm to it.