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Bijoux Restaurant Review: Formerly a stronghold of multi-course, prix-fixe menus, this Inwood Village gem underwent a bit of a makeover back in the spring of 2012, reopening with a different à la carte menu and slightly more approachable pricing. The service and dining room remain as formal --- some might call it “stuffy” --- as ever, though, with a glitzy chandelier focal point, high-backed chairs and white tablecloths. Chef-owner Scott Gottlich continues to turn out his thoughtful, impeccably presented food that blends French fare with contemporary techniques. Cauliflower-parsnip soup with black truffles eats like liquid silk, while foie gras is brightened with strawberry and rhubarb. Hearty but never heavy entrées like Kobe beef brisket with polenta, or duck schnitzel served with spätzle, reflect the slightly more casual vibe, and the dessert menu follows the same classics-with-a-twist methodology with offerings such as Meyer lemon crémeux with grapefruit sorbet or hazelnut-praline profiteroles. Anyone lacking a sweet tooth would do well to peruse the carefully curated cheese selection, served with appropriate and creative pairings like honeycomb and fruit gelées. Can’t decide on a wine? Gina, Gottlich’s wife and the restaurant’s sommelier, will provide tastes until you find just the right one from a list with labels from France and California, all well-chosen and none outrageously priced.