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Biko Restaurant Review: Bruno Oteiza and Mikel Alonso, disciples of innovative Spanish chef Juan Mari Arzak, collaborated to open this restaurant. The menu is divided into whimsical creations under the heading “evolution” and standout versions of more conventional Spanish fare with the rubric “the pleasure of abundance.” Among the best offerings are the raw salmon with “smoke paper” (it’s made from potato flour) and red and black caviar, marinated in citrus fruits and served with black sesame paste; and squares of grilled tuna served with a sauce of fruits and nuts, essence of tuna and warm watermelon slices. Biko is a large space with high ceilings, discreetly lit in the afternoon with slatted window shades. In the afternoon the clientele is made up of Mexican power brokers and big-haired ladies who lunch. There’s a full bar and a notable wine list, with a predictable emphasis on Spanish selections. Many of them are available by the glass, uncommon in Mexico City.