A charming Art Deco bungalow transformed into a contemporary, art-filled restaurant, Bistro 45 is both cosmopolitan and homey. After more than 20 years, often-present owner Robert Simon continues to ensure warm, professional service and maintains one of Southern California's best wine lists (the restaurant is well known for its elaborate winemaker dinners). Under young chef Steven Lona, who refined his skills at Orange County standouts Marché Moderne and Studio at Montage Laguna Beach, Bistro 45 offers a handful of classic bistro dishes, like bouillabaisse and cassoulet. But the cooking is predominantly contemporary French with California influences. Starters include a spinach tart topped with goat cheese and plated with house-cured bacon; New Zealand grouper tartare with celery root purée and Meyer lemon vinaigrette; and a roasted beet salad with caramelized oats and mint gelée. Each of its three varieties of beets reflects cooking in different vinegars, and they’re presented with a surprisingly complementary honey yogurt. Molecular gastronomic tricks are used sparingly, and Lona keeps Bistro 45’s menu grounded but interesting with dishes such as harissa-marinated lamb, double-cut pork chop with parsnip purée and port-roasted prunes, and caramelized scallops with spiced crème fraîche. Desserts include a chocolate soup (essentially a soft soufflé), berry crumble tart and a refreshing lemon mousse cake. Some patrons favor the outdoor terrace, with its retractable roof, over the bustling dining room. Bistro 45 remains one of Pasadena’s best restaurants and is worth a drive if you don’t live in the Crown City.
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