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Bistro du Midi Restaurant Review: Bistro du Midi took over the old Excelsior space with much fanfare. It's a modern-style French café, with Robert Sisca, formerly of New York's Le Bernardin, at the helm. Brunch brings a decadent selection of brioche french toast, pancakes with mixed berry compote, and salmon Benedict. And dinner is true French bistro fare, from the array of pâtés to lobster macaroni gratin to succulent meats, like seared duck breast with Swiss chard, gnocchi and black olives. Bouillabaisse in particular is not to be missed; it's served either with shellfish or without (“classic”). Affable sommelier Kelly Coggins---formerly of Cambridge mainstay Rialto---makes the lengthy wine list approachable; feel free to ask for tips. The list focuses heavily on the south of France, and many selections are available by the half bottle. Service is suitably deferential.