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Bistro Moncur Restaurant Review: The tradition of offering French bistro classics is what has lured diners here for many years, and it remains with chef Sam Kane now in command. This is not quite what many expect in a corner hotel, but while the food often upstages the “bistro” tag, the local well-heeled diners don’t care a bit. They know their favorite French onion soufflé gratin is available, and perhaps a main of confit Bultarra saltbush lamb shoulder, eggplant and borlotti beans accompanied by silver beet, olives and preserved lemon, so all’s right with their world. Desserts keep the French dream alive with peach Melba, Prosecco and peach granita flanked by raspberry sorbet, or some other treat to finish. A nice touch is the set menu for groups of 10 or more. It’s no surprise that the notable wine list has many French labels and fine vintages, along with some of Australia’s best, with a considerable number by the glass. The welcome is relaxed, and even without a booking, staff will put your name on a waiting list, settle you in the bar for a drink, and even hold a table if you prefer to charge your glasses first. The tone was set years ago, and it has become the benchmark for others in town.