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Bistro Moncur Restaurant Review: Even with different owners it’s still a “no bookings for dinner” zone at this popular upmarket place, although you may book for lunch. While the food often upstages the “bistro” tag, the locally well-heeled diners don’t care a bit. They know their favourite Alaskan snow crab and sweetcorn omelet, finished with a classic beurre noisette, is still much as it was in former chef Damien Pignolet’s era, so all’s right with their world. These days, the kitchen keeps the diners’ dream alive with its own distinctive dishes. The autumn menus see a robust plate of Bistro Moncur pure pork sausages with Lyonnaise onion, and do consider the caramel glazed apple tartlet or some other treat to finish. Meanwhile, the steaks are first-rate. It’s no surprise that the notable wine list offers many French labels and fine vintages, with a considerable number by the glass. Staff is relaxed and welcoming, and they will put your name on a waiting list, settle you in the bar for a drink, even hold a table if you prefer to charge your glasses first. The tone was set years ago, and it has become the benchmark for others in town.