* Click here for rating key
Chez Vatel Bistro Restaurant Review: Slowly and surely, like cooking a classic coq au vin, chef Damien Watel managed to make his homey bistro a shrine of sorts to la cuisine bourgeoise, a style of cooking that’s little seen in these parts. Watel has lately transferred ownership to another entity, provoking a name change, but he remains at the helm of the kitchen. We can thankfully still be enamored by the utterly unpretentious veal liver with bacon and onion, the classic duck confit, or the textbook Dover sole, simply sautéed a la meunière --- and, of course, that coq au vin. A deluxe appetizer option is the seared foie gras served with a tarte fine aux pommes. The more modest, evening prix-fixe menu offers both value and the opportunity to explore the chef's specials. The French wine roster ranges from steely Loire Valley whites to inky reds from Cahors. Silken mousse au chocolat elicits contented sighs at dessert.