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After long-held posts as executive chef for Café des Architectes and One sixtyblue, Martial Noguier turned restaurateur with this modern, French bistro concept. He’s brought his specialties---silky-smooth pâtés, buttery cheese plates, local ingredients, homemade charcuterie and well executed seafood. But in a departure from his fine-dining, French-meets-contemporary American style, Noguier experiments with more rustic cuisine, evidenced by Moroccan tagine-like braised lamb and handmade pastas, including a ravioli of the day. Desserts are classic, as in crème brûlée and bread pudding, but the warmed Hudson Valley Camembert still oozing in a crockpot with toast points, dried apple and candied walnuts could end the meal as easily as start it. Always a friendly face, Noguier continues his tradition of working the room, greeting followers and newcomers alike with a wide-eyed smile. Red walls with framed photos and chocolate-brown wood details make the space as inviting and comfortable as a traditional bistro, yet it's elevated to modern-day status with an expanded, small plates menu, a refined-yet-approachable wine list and strong, classic cocktails.
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