 Blackbird Restaurant Review: This high-flyer on the West Side's restaurant row draws patrons as hip as its austerely architectural setting. They crowd the sleek bar, waiting to settle down on high-tech chairs or high-backed banquettes at tables so close together only someone who eats like a bird can squeeze between them. But no one who eats like a bird could fully appreciate executive chef Paul Kahan's sophisticated dishes. Backed by David Posey (who worked under Grant Achatz at Trio and Alinea), Kahan taps both local producers and the world for ingredients. This translates into an ever-changing, seasonal array of appetizers, lush salads and intriguing main courses, such as saké-steamed black cod and braised octopus with capers and red kuri squash. One meal, you’ll enjoy a confit of suckling pig with smoked dates, stewed hazelnuts, pickled shallots and dandelions; the next, fermented black bean tortellini with roasted cauliflower, pea vines, sherry and fresh wasabi generates buzz. The thoughtful, interesting wine list holds musts, though you shouldn’t be surprised when a tasting course pairs perfectly with an aromatic Belgian ale. When it comes to finales, expect the unexpected --- as in sweet corn ice cream with bacon brioche, candied pecans, basil and small-batch maple syrup. Professional (but friendly) service helps compensate for the cramped, high-volume (and rather sterile) surroundings.
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