 Bocanova Restaurant Review: Chef Rick Hackett brings touches of classic technique to eclectic, hearty fare such as black bean feijoada, habanero-shrimp ceviche and chipotle-mushroom Kobe-style steak. Initially inspired by Latin dishes prepared by sous chefs for staff-only suppers, Hackett --- who co-owns Bocanova with his wife Meredith Melville, whom he met when both worked at Oakland's Bay Wolf and with whom he reopened San Francisco's historic Enrico's --- made it his mission to explore diverse, assertive Latin American cuisines and revisit Mexican food. The result is a tempting mashup, alive with wry surprises. In a setting that could hardly be more casual-romantic, with its up-close yacht harbor views, achiote-marinated chicken is dressed with white chocolate mole; chipotle aïoli brightens Dungeness crab deviled eggs; and fried ceviche features Pacific cod, pickled beans and Peruvian rocoto-pepper tartar sauce. South-of-the-border cocktails include Brazil's national drink, the citrus-cachaça caipirinha. Handy dining options include boxed take-out lunches and late-night small plate "Boca Bites": yuca-cheese fritters and tostones (fried plantain slices) with spiced crème fraîche are standouts. Don't miss a dinner in the "Rick's Supper Club" series --- monthly family-style meals based on special themes (Jalisco, organic wines, mole).
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