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The Boon Fly Cafe Restaurant Review: Veer off the highway to the jolly red barn that embodies The Carneros Inn’s “rustic moderne” design. Traces of the farm include a silo-like pizza oven sheathed in galvanized steel and a casual, kitchen-fronting wood-post bar. It’s all balanced by refinements such as moody tea candles and track lighting, banquette seating and nostalgic black and white photos. At sun-up, powerhouse breakfasts include corned beef hash, banana griddle cakes, and biscuits with house sausage gravy and eggs. Or, peer into the kitchen as hot, made-to-order donuts tube through a mini automated oil river until they flop over a cliff into a cinnamon sugar bin (for dessert, dip a half-dozen into a ramekin of bittersweet chocolate). Midday meanders into fancier territory with delicate, inspired flatbreads topped, perhaps, by roasted persimmons, goat cheese, crisp sage leaves and candied walnuts. At suppertime, choose a meaty pork ribs slab in sticky-smoky sauce with crisp sweet potato frites, juicy fried chicken in a thin crunchy batter, or ultra-creamy macaroni given depth by Swiss cheese. (Note: Albert Rivera is now the chef.) A trim Napa-dominant wine list flags biodynamic-organic-sustainable bottlings.