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Borgne Restaurant Review: Drawing its name from nearby Lake Borgne, this John Besh establishment is a big, lively and lavish seafood house. It’s also the signature restaurant of the Hyatt Regency New Orleans and, more important, the chef is Brian Landry, formerly of the legendary Galatoire’s. Landry showcases his talents at Borgne, by preparing innovative Louisiana seafood dishes. Try the salt and pepper squid or the oyster spaghetti, with creamy oyster broth and garlic. Oysters play a major role on the menu, most notably in the traditional oyster stew and the fried oysters amandine entrée. If you insist on a non-seafood dish, consider the “Carpet Bagger Filet” with béarnaise and, no surprise, fried oysters. Wines are well-selected for the cuisine, although there are a few varieties that may surprise. Desserts are a treat; we suggest the brownie sundae. The daily happy hour has become a real see-and-be-seen experience, so expect crowds and a noisy atmosphere into the early dining hour.