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Borgne Restaurant Review: Remember when hotel dining rooms were boring? That’s history. Drawing its name from nearby Lake Borgne, this John Besh establishment is a big, lively and lavish seafood house. It’s also the signature restaurant of the Hyatt Regency New Orleans, and, more important, the chef is Brian Landry, formerly of the legendary Galatoire’s. Landry showcases his talents at Borgne, by preparing innovative Louisiana seafood dishes. Try the crab and pork belly hot-pot with a five-spice crab broth. Even better is the oyster spaghetti, with creamy oyster broth and garlic. Oysters play a major role on the menu, most notably in the traditional oyster stew and the fried oysters amandine entrée. If you insist on a non-seafood dish, consider the “Carpet Bagger Filet” with béarnaise and, no surprise, fried oysters. Wines are well-selected for the cuisine, although there are a few varieties that may surprise. Desserts are a true treat; we suggest the hummingbird cake with pecans, pineapple, caramel and Creole cream cheese.