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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Boston Public Restaurant Review: Too few Bostonians know how lucky they are to have a chef of Pino Maffeo’s caliber in their midst. A few years back, he left the employ of known New York entity Patricia Yeo to open Restaurant L in luxury indie department store Louis Boston. But between an interior design that seemed as uninvitingly steely as a bank vault and tabs that would require hefty withdrawals from said look-alike, the public never quite took to L. Perhaps that explains the funny name Maffeo chose for his relaunch; it certainly explains the steakhouse concept---a beloved one in Beantown---and the much-warmed-up space, combining plush browns with chic Asian accents. Luckily, the latter herald the fact that Maffeo hasn’t abandoned his talent for incorporating edgy Eastern elements into his now chop-centric repertoire (indeed, L fans will be happy to see a few old favorites untouched, like the pork ribs with green-chile dipping sauce). Instead, he’s simply added to them his ability to grill a mean piece of meat---take the applewood-grilled beef with four different salts, more complexly flavored than it has a right to be.