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Branzino Italian Ristorante Restaurant Review: Branzino is another BYOB Italian restaurant, but it has the attraction of specializing in the namesake fish, Mediterranean sea bass, firm and white fleshed with a richness when cooked on the bone. The chef’s rendition is grilled whole, dressed simply with olive oil, lemon, fresh herbs and capers, and filleted tableside. Branzino goes beyond the usual Italian suspects with such inventive starters as escarole salad with walnuts and dates in a Parmesan dressing, and calamari "stufato" --- a stew of squid, olives, capers, golden raisins, pine nuts and tomatoes. Pasta is made fresh daily, including pappardelle with rabbit ragù or salt cod ravioli with lemon and dried olives. On a cold winter’s night, the tender osso buco is the ultimate comfort food. In fine weather, request a table outside in the brick-walled garden. Try the cheesecake, and enjoy the attention of the staff, the sparkling chandeliers and murals of Italy that decorate this charming setting.