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Bravas Bar de Tapas Restaurant Review: The local Stark restaurant empire has mastered globally influenced small plates at its Willi’s restaurants. Now it’s zeroing in on the tapas motherland, Spain. Obey the neon “jamon in” sign and cross the threshold of this inviting bungalow off the square. The fresh retro chic décor mashes up ’60s psychedelic --- Bill Graham posters, metal beaded curtains and amber lucite hanging lamps --- and a refined dose of Restoration Hardware including a mounted white porcelain cow head and minimalist glassed-in fireplace. On warm nights the backyard beckons, with a deck bar roomier than the one inside and a heat lamp-strewn patio. Immediately get on theme with sliced-to-order jamon Ibérico, cheese and olives marinated with orange rind and served in a sardine tin, a hefty wedge of tortilla Espanola, and pan con tomate scented with garlic. Nibbling warms up with Dungeness crab nested in toasted saffron vermicelli straw, a cross between paella and Rice-A-Roni; charred octopus tentacles gripping fingerlings; and grilled skirt steak with sweet onion marmalade arm-wrestling blue cheese. Wines are either Spanish or local, all by glass, half liter and liter. Finish with the single dessert, a squeeze of Strauss soft-serve vanilla ice cream from “la maquina” behind the bar.