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Bravas Bar de Tapas Restaurant Review: The local Stark restaurant empire zeroes in on the tapas motherland, Spain. Obey the neon “jamon in” sign and cross the threshold of this inviting bungalow. The fresh retro chic décor mashes up warm colors and imagery evocative of Spain with ’60s psychedelic --- Bill Graham posters, metal beaded curtains and amber lucite hanging lamps --- and a refined dose of sleek-modern, including a mounted white porcelain cow head and minimalist glassed-in fireplace. On warm nights the backyard beckons, with a deck bar roomier than the one inside and a heat lamp-strewn patio. Now, the tapas: Try the sliced-to-order jamon Ibérico, cheese and olives marinated with orange rind and served in a sardine tin, the anchovies, a hefty wedge of tortilla Espanola or pan con tomate scented with garlic. Dungeness crab is nested in toasted saffron vermicelli, a cross between paella and Rice-A-Roni; charred octopus tentacles grip fingerlings; and grilled skirt steak with sweet onion marmalade meets blue cheese. Wines are either Spanish or local, all by glass, half liter and liter, or try a Spanish-inspired cocktail. Finish with the single dessert, a squeeze of Strauss soft-serve vanilla ice cream from “la maquina” behind the bar --- with a glass of sherry.