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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Bruschetta's Restaurant Review: Against a background of understated contemporary décor, smart, black-clad servers attend to diners' needs with friendly banter and smooth efficiency. The owners take care to visit tables. Usually by the second visit, the staff knows your name. The clientele tends to be lively and young. Contemporary American specials augment regional Italian dishes. An all-day menu offers good value in build-your-own pastas. (Select pasta type, sauce and special topping, such as sun-dried tomatoes or chicken.) And pasta shares the spotlight with fish, poultry and meat---especially veal. The kitchen's style is to dispense overly generous salt and gigantic portions. Of course, there's bruschetta, grilled garlic bread with tomato and other toppings. For dessert, order tiramisu.