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Bulldog Barbecue Restaurant Review: Bulldog’s chef-owner is former Top Chef contender Howie Kleinberg. His small, rustic neighborhood joint offers smoked meats by the pound and fixin’s like cornbread and onion rings to accompany the smoky goodness. Pulled pork, the true test of Carolinas-style 'cue and Bulldog's specialty, isn't bad, but rich beef brisket is more flavorful. Barbecue sauces (one mustard-based, one tomato-based) are both first-rate, similarly tangy with subtle heat. Over-the-top Black Angus burgers include the Hot Mess with candied bacon, caramelized onions, cheddar and chipotle mayo and the pulled pork Honky Tonk Woman with fried pickles and crunchy slaw.