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Ca' Dario Restaurant Review: Chef/owner Dario Furlati, originally from Piedmont, prepares classic northern Italian dishes; coming here is like visiting a trattoria in the Old Country. The space is what you’d expect --- white tablecloths and tables so close you can pinch someone’s food, and there are a few staggered tables outside on the sidewalk. Given its popularity, it gets very loud inside, and the service can be spotty, but the din is excused because of the food. You’ll find starters ranging from soups to thin-sliced pieces of smoked swordfish served with fennel, radicchio and arugula. Panini are popular at lunchtime, from an ever-changing panino del giorno to one stuffed with ham and Fontina, or a vegetable version made with eggplant, roasted peppers, goat cheese and olive pâté. Dinner options include spinach ravioli with butter-sage sauce, baked chicken with porcini mushrooms, and a hefty veal chop grilled with rosemary and olive oil. Rotisserie specials include chicken, rabbit and duck; the roasted quail served with porcini ragoût sauce, spinach and polenta is a standout. The adjacent Ca’Dario Pizzeria offers a dozen authentic thin-crust pies if it’s too crowded here. The wine list is heavy on Italian labels, but also peppered with local wines, and they offer a full bar.