The entrance is off an alley behind the restaurant on North Avenue, though locals are well aware of this longstanding address. It’s the kind of go-to place that makes it hard to isolate recommendations --- the menu changes fairly often, but more often than not satisfies with what’s familiar enough: foie gras, rack of lamb and the like. When available, it’s always a safe bet to start with the filet of ostrich, perhaps with bacon, fingerling potatoes and tomato accents. From the crock of French onion soup to mushroom risotto or horseradish-crusted salmon, you’ll feel the l'amour. Check out the three-course prix-fixe, which is quite the deal at $35.
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