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Cafe Capriccio Restaurant Review: On a side street in the old Italian section of Albany is one of the area's most consistently good eateries, serving regional Italian cuisine under the watchful eye of chef-owner Jim Rua. Just a few steps below street level, the restaurant retains a retro '50s feel with leather booths and wood-paneled walls. The menu, however, is anything but constant: Rua tweaks the selections every few months, trying new preparations inspired by his jaunts to the home country, while also keeping some of our faves on the roster, such as the eggplant with four cheeses appetizer, calamari neri (squid in black-ink sauce) and homemade tagliatelle with zingy puttanesca sauce. The risotto is always a fine option as well and comes in a sun-dried tomato and Gorgonzola sauce. Service is friendly and professional, and if you're pressed for time or just a tad peckish, feel free to kick back and enjoy an app and a glass of Valpolicella at the small but snazzy bar. This is not the place to skip dessert---the bakers are pros. The café also hosts occasional themed dinners.