 What started as an authentic tapas bar has sprawled into an institution with several huge dining rooms (some with the charm of a mess hall) and a deli carrying everything from prepared tapas to cooking equipment. In the process, food quality and service have suffered. Still, this remains a lively and generally likeable place to come with a big group and eat cheaply. If there are only a few of you, try to snag seats at the bar or at one of the high mosaic-topped tables opposite. Sip sherry, sangría, beer or Spanish wine, soaking up the atmosphere while nibbling garlicky potato salad, tortilla española, Iberian ham with manchego cheese, roasted red peppers in olive oil and baked goat cheese in tomato sauce. Ask the servers not to deliver too much at once, as they may need a reminder. And, whatever you do, skip the paella. Finish with silky crema Catalana.
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