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4304 Westheimer Rd. (Mid Lane St.) Send to Phone

Lunch Mon.-Fri., Dinner Mon.-Sat.

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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Cafe Perrier Restaurant Review

: This sophisticated bistro has the look of a quaint country inn, but its simple charm belies the depth of talent of chef/owner Frederick Perrier, who has blended a French cuisine comeback with the current modern American trend. Still, Perrier wants to make it clear that this is not the same old French! Once the hallmark of Continental cuisine, the heavy cream-laden fare of France began to pale in comparison to the more adventurous creations, usually from Latin America. Thankfully, he has found a happy medium between French and American cuisine. Sure, the Gratin of Lobster displays the fondness of the French for cheese, but this one is à l’Américaine with wild mushrooms and braised endives. The Old-Fashioned Tart appetizer is tasty with caramelized onions, new potatoes and goat cheese. One of the most popular sides, however, is a surprising All-American classic-macaroni and cheese. Made with a French accent-goat cheese-this penne pasta dish warms the soul as only comfort foods can. As for entrées, the house favorite is the Carré of Pork, a thick chop covered in horseradish and roasted on a bed of seasonal vegetables. Meat dishes are celebrated here, with standouts including Grilled Lamb Chop and Lamb Tender and the Penne with Tender Chunks of Veal Osso Buco. Not so inviting are the seafood dishes. Though notably fresh, the Crispy Seared Filet of Snapper is bland, not to mention lacking crispiness. The red fish filet is more innovative, draped with lemon grass-lobster sauce and topped with crawfish and shrimp. You may fill up so much on some of these entrées that you consider skipping dessert. Mais, non. You must, absolutely must, try the Chocolat Fondant, a simple, warm chocolate cake that oozes with hot fudge-testament to why the pastry chef won the James Beard Godiva award. C’est magnifique!


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