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Canoe Restaurant Review: Canoe occupies a spot that, besides being beautiful, also is historic: it's where units of the Union Army crossed on their way to the Battle of Atlanta in 1864. Under the direction of executive chef Matthew Basford, a native of Australia who has long been with the restaurant, dishes are seasonal, so fall brings venison while early summer champions local peaches. Starters might include jumbo lump crab cake with yuzu-dressed cabbage slaw or house-smoked salmon on a crispy potato cake with Vermont goat cheese. Entrées may range from grilled Atlantic salmon with spaghetti squash, carrots, pecans and wilted baby spinach to slow-roasted Carolina rabbit with bacon ravioli and candied garlic sauce. At any time of year, try the rock shrimp if you've never had this rare delicacy. Desserts include sorbets made daily, but all of the offerings merit attention. Back for brunch, enjoy house-baked breads and jams. A well-chosen wine list is deep with choices to round out dinner, or just for drinks by the river. Take-out is available during the week, but not on the weekends.