THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Carlos'

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Carlos' Restaurant Review:

Trendier and more innovative restaurants have come and gone, but Carlos and Debbie Nieto's North Shore gem continues to impress after all these years. Surprisingly relaxed, given its special occasion appeal, these hallowed, wood-paneled walls have hosted many a marriage proposal, oenophile extravagance and business deal. A testament to its spirit, chef de cuisine Ramiro Velasquez, who worked his way up through the ranks, wears the toque. And Velasquez manages to keep the restaurant's penchant for nothing-but-the-best intact. Despite an oft-changing menu, you can expect the creative French fare to be consistently topnotch --- especially when it comes to the daily dégustation menu ($100, or $155 with wine). A visit may reveal delights like delicate, roasted chestnut custard with caramelized parsnip purée, toothsome red wine-infused risotto crowned with a Parmesan tuile, and an unexpected presentation of boldly flavored, cocoa-crusted New Zealand venison strip loin residing atop a hot rock. The regular menu is no slouch either. Stalwarts like the hot and cold Hudson Valley foie gras (the former preparation served on top of, the latter under, glass) and the tender lobster-saffron tortellini with leek gratin and lobster-saffron sauce also delight. Service is impeccable and the wine list will knock your socks off.