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Centro Restaurant Review: The dramatic views of a waterfall and the Byram River might just make you forget that this Italian restaurant, located in a renovated carpet mill, is actually part of a chain. Secure a window table or dine al fresco on the terrace, taking in the sound of the cascading water below. There’s a family-friendly vibe; crayons are provided for doodling on the crisp white butcher paper that serves as a tablecloth. The kitchen’s large repertoire is a cut above what you might expect, despite all the distracting bells and whistles. Try the paper-thin San Marco beef carpaccio with Parmesan, capers, onions and olive oil. Among large plates, go for the risotto, a creamy combination of grilled shrimp, salmon and asparagus flavored with basil tomato pesto. Finish with tiramisu for dessert. Service is prompt and unobtrusive.