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Chama River Brewing Company Restaurant Review: Albuquerque got a late start on the national craft-beer scene, but it has a dark horse in this surprisingly handsome brewpub. An oasis amid the freeway chains, it’s filled with a stone-and-copper glow as golden as the flowing beers --- and if we wax a tad poetic, rest assured it’s them talking. Sleeping Dog Oatmeal stout is a roasty, toasty winner, as is the celebrated Baltic Three Dog Night porter; seasonal taps might contain Hopricot or amber ale aged in bourbon barrels. Filling as they are, you’ll still need sustenance --- and the upscale comfort food, albeit pricey, is solid indeed. So long, that is, as you’re sober enough to navigate the menu: this is decidedly not the place for sun-dried tomato hummus or piñon-crusted tilapia, and the jury’s out as to the regular multi-course wine dinners it inexplicably hosts. It is, however, the place for fondue spiked with ale and green chile or a well-handled hunk of prime rib; the ballyhooed bread basket is a sheer bonus --- and so, for that matter, is the maple-cream blondie (a butterscotch brownie) doused in brown-ale syrup. The only sure thumbs down go to the cocktails --- but you’re here for the beer, remember?