THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Chambers Kitchen

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Chambers Kitchen Restaurant Review:

The dynamic modern art images at Chambers Kitchen are a sharp contrast to the masterful dishes created by the chefs at this unusual two-level restaurant at Chambers hotel. The modern artworks are isolated phenomena, floating in some rarefied field governed by mysterious internal stylistic laws, while the kitchen artists here take a much more basic approach. Although polished and original, they paint to the heart of culinary achievement: food must always be topnotch and satisfying. Wager that this is the real triumph of chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, who opened the 190-seat David Rockwell-designed space. The presentations and the unusual and creative combinations are never at the expense of style over substance. The menu listings are written in a culinary haiku. These few words, “rice cracker-crusted tuna with sriracha-citrus emulsion” in no way prepares the reader for the wonder of an appetizer napped in a lighter-than-air dressing that is best described as a kissin’ cousin to hollandaise. Peekytoe crab is presented with asparagus ribbons, garden fresh for crunch and accented with melon ice and heady pungent mustard. Duck a l'orange is a classic transformed with accompanying matchsticks of Asian pear and gumdrops of citrus-flavored crystallized ginger. In addition to the Asian-inspired fare, which is Vongerichten’s trademark, there are many dishes showcasing high quality local ingredients such as tempura salt-and-pepper walleye with jalapeño and basil. The wine list will please connoisseurs but does not discourage the more casual sipper in choices or in price. Desserts also shine; among the best is the white chocolate Pavlova with yuzu sorbet and Thai basil. Advice: Savor each bite with a sip of sherry from the first-rate list of dessert wines---hmmm, perhaps Pedro Ximenez, Lustau, San Emilio from Jerez, Spain.