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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Chez Henri Restaurant Review: Chez Henri, located just beyond Harvard Square, has long been content to remain on the fringes both geographically and culinarily. Chef-owner Paul O'Connell has admirably eschewed the chef-as-hotshot role to take the chef-as-anthropologist approach, strengthening cultural ties where so many foolishly fray them. His carefully constructed menu changes seasonally and partners the deep, evocative flavors of French country cooking with the multi-cultural spunk of Central and Latin American cuisine, be it ceviche mixta with mango-lime mojo or Azorean kale salad with buttermilk-pimenta dressing. Our favorites include the criollo bouillabaisse filled with shellfish in a tasty fennel saffron broth and the Jamaican rum-glazed pork loin with mashed ginger sweet potatoes and peach salsa. Regulars tend to stick to the dark, moody barroom, where they sip on ginger cosmopolitans and other creative cocktails that are well (and potently) crafted, and partake of a bar menu that features the city’s best (and most ballyhooed) Cuban sandwich, conch fritters, grilled chorizo and spicy duck tamales. Wherever you eat, finish with the peach-berry shortcake topped with creamy dulce de leche.