 This turn-of-the-century firehouse was converted into a restaurant; from the outside, it still looks like a firehouse. Inside, some of the trappings --- a tin ceiling, fire poles, glazed tile brick wall --- remain intact. What’s a complete --- and pleasant --- surprise, though, is who’s in the kitchen: Kendal Duque (ex-Sepia). Not surprisingly, he upped the ante at this previously standard American. The concept, which continues down the steakhouse path, has gone contemporary rather than classic in some regards: a barbecue-rubbed, double-cut pork chop with cherry pan sauce and a bison burger with port-braised onions and blue cheese, for example. Look to dishes like whole-roasted trout with salsify, porcinis and cashew vinaigrette; black truffle-crusted Prime dry-aged strip steak; and crispy cauliflower couscous with dried fruits and hazelnut vinaigrette for further proof.
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