: This turn-of-the-century firehouse was converted into a restaurant; from the outside, it still looks like a firehouse. Inside, some of the trappings --- a tin ceiling, fire poles, glazed tile brick wall --- remain intact. What’s a complete and pleasant surprise, though, is who’s in the kitchen: John Caputo (ex-Bin 36). Not surprisingly, he upped the ante on what was previously standard American cooking. The concept, which continues down the steakhouse path, has gone contemporary rather than classic in some regards: butter-poached turbot with brown butter, almonds and grapes, for example. Look to dishes like swordfish au poivre, Amish brick chicken, and scallops with quinoa “fried rice” for further proof.

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