 Valet parking, dark wood, leather booths and dim lighting impart a decidedly Southern glitz at this buzzing spot. It’s enough to scare off any old-school ’cue purist --- until the feast arrives. This is where Lee Ann Whippen --- a Virginia transplant and a fixture on the competitive barbecue scene since the ’90s --- merges upscale with down-home. Starters, like fluffy bacon-cheddar hush puppies and lemony grilled shrimp with polenta, are a tasty means of stomach-stretching before the main event. Heck, there’s even a barbecue flight as a kick-off to meals. Following suit, meaty main courses are pumped full of flavor, from two mammoth smokers, which enlist five varieties of wood. Get the ribs (available in St. Louis-style tipless or baby-back varietals). Kobe beef brisket and pulled pork arrive sauce-less, allowing you to bask in their smoky glory. Wash it down with a mint julep and conclude on a sweet note with a nutty wedge of Derby pie.
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