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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Citronelle by Michel Richard Restaurant Review: What happens when Washington DC's Michel Richard gets his happy hands on a menu, and Albuquerque-based interior designer Jane Dillon lends her soothing earthy ideals to a gutting? The somnolent Ranch restaurant gets a shot at a second life, reincarnated as Citronelle. Kitchen duties are bestowed to Anthony Keene (Little Palm Island Resort & Spa) who capably executes Richard's dishes that (mostly) mirror the DC flagship. Cuteness abounds, as menu names play games. The "mosaic," anything but prosaic, describes fish and meat in razor-cut proportions arranged in a colorful medley and garnished with the unexpected (but that's to be expected from Richard). In this case: Rice Krispies cereal and black beans. Escargots baked in a miniature casserole dish take on a comfort-food quality, creamy and topped with a nut crumble. Let the accompanying sliced egg fool you for fun: it's not egg at all, rather fanciful-shaped mozzarella and tomato---abracadabra. Spicy watermelon, tuna and beet salad refreshes but offers nothing distinct. Broiled sablefish is full of robust flavor with a slick sidekick of bright green edamame pâté. Richard, a former pastry chef, takes his passion out in dessert: Le Kit Cat is his twist on the crisp wafer candy bar. Here, melted chocolate with hazelnut overtones enrobe crispy stacked layers of corn flakes, milk chocolate and peanut butter. Hopefully, Richard will change the entire menu up every so often as this winning formula runs the risk of becoming similar to a great joke told more than once. Opt for a cocktail in the retro revamped lounge and page through the extensive California and French wine list while taking in the mystical backdrop of moss-covered oaks.