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Coastal Grill Restaurant Review: Coastal Grill is the place for just-caught fish, be it rockfish, grouper, trout or any of the fine fins noted nightly on the entryway chalkboard, such as fried or pan-seared flounder, prepared artfully with perhaps an orange brown butter sauce. But if you’re watching calories you can always ask for a simpler preparation (and balance the profiteroles bursting with ice cream for dessert). Whether you choose seafood --- we recommend the fried oysters and soft shells --- or the more grounded but equally topnotch duck with sweet cherry and red wine sauce or pork loin with red cabbage and apple compote, half an acorn squash spilling its pool of melted butter and brown sugar will likely share the plate. The autumnal accompaniment (corn on the cob in summer) hasn’t changed since Jerry Bryan opened this elegantly low-key restaurant in 1989. Neither has the fact that freshness is non-negotiable. A veteran of New York’s Quilted Giraffe, Bryan trains and retains culinarians. He purposely keeps his wine list good but small, recalling times he’s been out with his wife and had to concentrate on tomes instead of her. In 2014, he moved the restaurant across the street to bigger digs, but not one word on the menu changed; even the roast chicken, accompanied by lemon shallot butter and cranberry relish, crossed the road.