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Coastal Grill Restaurant Review: Coastal Grill is the place for just-caught fish, be it rockfish, grouper, salmon or any of the fine fins noted nightly on the chalkboard, prepared artfully with perhaps a scallion butter sauce. But if you’re watching calories you can always ask for a simpler preparation. Whether you choose seafood --- we recommend the fried oysters and soft shells --- or the more grounded but equally topnotch grilled leg of lamb with eggplant purée or pork loin with red cabbage and apple compote, half an acorn squash spilling its pool of melted butter and brown sugar will likely share the plate. The autumnal accompaniment (corn on the cob in summer) hasn’t changed since Jerry Bryan opened this elegantly low-key restaurant in 1989. Neither has the fact that freshness is non-negotiable. A veteran of New York’s Quilted Giraffe, Bryan trains and retains culinarians; executive chef Maureen Cucchiaro has been with him from the start. He purposely keeps his wine list good but small, recalling times he’s been out with his wife and had to concentrate on tomes instead of her.