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Colt & Gray Restaurant Review: Serious gastronauts---the kind that go in search of off-the-eaten-path menus that offer roasted marrow bones, house-made country pâté, foie gras terrine, pigs' totters and house-made charcuterie---have found their stomping ground at this gastropub just west of LoDo. Intimate and determinedly upscale, sans the metropolitan pretense, Colt & Gray, named for the owners' two sons, pushes the envelope, even when the kitchen is simply retooling familiar foodstuffs. To wit: the pork chop, pooled in a fig pan sauce, is marinated in chipotle chilies and figs, and served with spätzle and wilted kale. Instead of the ubiquitous tuna tartare, executive chef Nelson Perkins plays with salmon, pairing the near-translucent flesh with jalapeños, salmon roe and beet greens. The wine list is heavy on boutique bottlings, and the imaginative cocktail roster, beginning with the "Three Vices"---bacon-infused rye whiskey, bitters, orange peel and maple syrup---is one of the best in the city. Colt & Gray isn't inexpensive, but on Monday nights, a three-course dinner trumpeting off-menu dishes is $40 per person, or $55 with cocktail and wine pairings from the bar.