 In crafting his subtle dishes---chickpea panisse with romesco; trout crudo with fennel, hibiscus, dill, horseradish and seaweed paper---chef Jason Fox is a gentle yet daring alchemist. He chooses pristine ingredients at peak-season freshness, and is far too creative to leave them be. Yet his Asian-influenced food never strains a diner's palate with the sort of silliness contrived by some practitioners of molecular gastronomy. Menu items might range from an Asian pear salad with chicories, pomegranate, cured ham, Idiazabal cheese and long pepper to cedar-grilled pork shoulder with nettles, Fuji apples, miso, Tepary beans and bacon vinaigrette. Fox applies the same playful approach to desserts, resulting in a pile of successes, such as a peanut butter semifreddo with caramel chocolate ganache and frozen popcorn. To establish a convivial mood, a disco ball spins slowly above a square glass pane set into the center of the ceiling, sending sparkling droplets of light cascading over the hickory tables and kitchen appliances. The restaurant feels far less stiff than the temples of gastronomy often associated with food of this caliber. The six-course tasting menu is $60, $90 with Sarah Elliott's wine pairings, and the à la carte menu items usually cost anywhere from $10-$16. Although the restaurant's much-discussed charitable mission is noble ($10 from tasting menu proceeds benefit a revolving cast of non-profits), Commonwealth deserves highest praise for offering a truly special dining experience at a reasonable price.
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