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The Cook's Shop Restaurant Review: This truly is one of the most intimate locales on either side of the river. Lino Catroppa's 15-table hideaway is lit only by the flames under food warmers and the light coming from the flaming hearth. Each table seems to have its own alcove. Made-at-the-table pasta dishes, such as the very good spaghetti alla chitarra carbonara, may be ordered as an appetizer to share or as a main course. Many other dishes are cooked on the grill, including rosemary-dappled lamb, brochettes of beef, sausage and chicken. Fish of the day is served along with the house green salad and warm garlic bread. Catroppa named his charming spot, down a few steps from the sidewalk in a small, discreet brownstone, for the ancient Roman restaurants that were called cook's shops.